40W Fluorescent Lamp Inverter

Description:
This 40W fluorescent lamp inverter allows you to run 40W fluorescent tubes from any 12V source capable of delivering 3A. This is basically a larger version of the 12VDC Fluorescent Lamp Driver and can be used to light regular or blacklight tubes.

Parts:
Part Total Qty. Description
R1 1 180 Ohm 1W Resistor
R2 1 47 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R3 1 2.2 Ohm 1W Resistor (only needed once)
C1, C2 2 100uF 16V Electrolytic Capacitor
C3 1 100nF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
Q1 1 TIP 3055 or 2N3055 or equivalent
L1 1 See "Notes"
T1 1 See "Notes"
MISC 1 Wire, Case, Board, Heatsink For Q1, heatshrink, AM antenna rod for coil
Notes:
Email Bart Milnes with questions, comments, etc.
Wind L1/T1. You will need an AM antenna rod that is about 60mm (2.5 inches) long to wind T1/L1 on. T1/L1 are wound on the same core. Shrink a layer of heatshrink over the core to insulate it. Leave 50mm of wire at each end of the coils.
Primary: Wind 60 turns of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire on the first layer and put a layer of heatshrink over it.
Feedback: Wind 13 turns of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire on the core and then heatshrink over that.
Secondary: This coil has 450 turns of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire in three layers. Wind one layer and then heatshrink over it. Do the same for the next two.

Calibrate/test the circuit. To calibrate/set up the circuit connect the 2.2 Ohm 1W resistor (R3) in series with the positive supply. Connect a 40W fluorescent tube to the high voltage ends of the transformer. Momentarily connect power. If the tube doesn't light immediately reverse the connections of L1. If the tube still doesn't work, check all connections. When you get the tube to light remove the 2.2 ohm resistor and the circuit is ready for use. You will not need R3 again.
This circuit is designed for 220V lamps. It will work with 120V units just fine, but will shorten the life of the tube.
This page has been extensively rewritten by Bart Milne. (15/3/01)

220 Volts Flashing Lamps Circuit

Circuit diagram

 
Parts:
R1 100K 1/4W Resistor
R2,R5 1K 1/4W Resistors
R3,R6 470R 1/4W Resistors
R4 12K 1/4W Resistor
C1 1000�F 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1-D4 1N4007 1000V 1A Diodes
D5 P0102D 400V 800mA SCR
Q1 BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistor
Q2 BC337 45V 800mA NPN Transistor
PL1 Male Mains plug
SK1 Female Mains socket
Device purpose:
This circuit is intended as a reliable replacement to thermally-activated switches used for Christmas tree lamp-flashing. The device formed by Q1, Q2 and related resistors triggers the SCR. Timing is provided by R1,R2 & C1. To change flashing frequency don't modify R1 and R2 values: set C1 value from 100 to 2200�F instead.
Best performances are obtained with C1=470 or 1000�F and R4=12K or 10K. Due to low consumption of normal 10 or 20 lamp series-loops intended for Christmas trees (60mA @ 220V typical for a 20 lamp series-loop), very small and cheap SCR devices can be used, e.g. C106D1 (400V 3.2A) or TICP106D (400V 2A), this last and the suggested P0102D devices having TO92 case.
Important Note:
For proper operation it's absolutely necessary to employ high Gate-sensitive SCRs.
If you are unable to find these devices you can use Triacs instead. In this case the circuit operates also with relatively powerful devices. A recommended Triac type is the ubiquitous TIC206M (600V 4A) but many others can work.Note that in spite of the Triac, diode bridge D1-D4 is in any case necessary.
This circuit was awarded with publication in ELECTRONICS WORLD "Circuit Ideas", June 2000 issue, page 458
author:RED Free Circuit Designs,
website: http://www.redcircuits.com/

12VDC Fluorescent Lamp Driver

Circuit diagram

Part
Total Qty.
Description
Substitutions
C1 1 100uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C2,C3 2 0.01uf 25V Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C4 1 0.01uf 1KV Ceramic Disc Capacitor
R1 1 1K 1/4W Resistor
R2 1 2.7K 1/4W Resistor
Q1 1 IRF510 MOSFET
U1 1 TLC555 Timer IC
T1 1 6V 300mA Transformer
LAMP 1 4W Fluorescent Lamp
MISC 1 Board, Wire, Heatsink For Q1

Notes

Q1 must be installed on a heat sink.
A 240V to 10V transformer will work better then the one in the parts list. The problem is that they are hard to find.
This circuit can give a nasty (but not too dangerous) shock. Be careful around the output leads.